Below are 2 documents;

VIRAGO Installation Guide   download

Trouble Shooting    download

V-Star Instructions 1100   download

650 V-Star Instructions    download

400/500/535 Virago Instructions    download

Click on the “Plus sign” to view them, or download it for later use.

VIRAGO Installation Guide

        700 through 1100       VIRAGO Installation Guide

Congratulations on your purchase of

The KJS System

Revised: June: 2015

Please read carefully before you start the installation of this new composite system. These tip’s are proven through years and hours of R&D and were designed for self-installation with minimal prior mechanical background. It is mentioned in the trouble shooting section a separate attachment, about vacuum leaks on installing the manifold, please remember, you can’t do the final checks of the carb’s performance, if is not sealing properly, intake manifold leaks are 99% of all problems !  The carb supplied for your system is a TM40-6 formally known as a HS40, here’s a link to mikuni for more details, http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf also, visit the FAQ from the web site for further explanations, on how the system works and exhaust system clarifications

NOTE: which ever air filter you choose, the one on the web site is a K&N, part # RC 1950, no brackets required, but custom filters, depending on how heavy will need brackets to the frame to support any Extra weight that some air filters have. This save’s ware & tear on the rubber boot. We don’t sell air filters; there are just too many kinds

 MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

The most important thing to remember is the old theory, practice make’s perfect. Use BLACK SILICONE ADHESIVE SEALANT    ULTRA BLACK RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER, this is for installing and sealing the manifold correctly & takes  up to 24 HR.S, too cure, read there package for use

A:     With the old dual carb system, it’s a fact that on older models, that one cylinder may have run richer than the other.  Over a period of time, this gums up the intake valves and piston rings.  With the spark plugs removed and the duel carbs you can spray down into the cylinders & intake/exhaust valves the valve stems with WD 40, turning the engine over from time to time. Do this over a period of a day or two, to loosen up all the old crap, so when you fire up the new system, it clears it out and you’ll be able to enjoy the KJS system to its fullest potential. If you choose to perform this step, be aware that you’ll see lots of really nasty smoke on your first engine start up. . If the engine pops, then the valves are carboned up and it will clear in a 100 mile. This holds true for older abused models that used duel carb’s that been bad for years

B:    Note, with the composite manifold never over tighten. There tough! So be sure you understand this, it works! Never over tighten, again, let the silicone do its job. If you have a 3rd party do the install for you, remember, most mechanics know everything, and they don’t get paid to read these instructions, so if they brake it, as they say, they have to buy you a new one. This is called installation abuse! Please just use common sense, thank you

C:    Here comes the practice part: NOTE; Record the size of gaskets being used! Using the gaskets supplied on the front & rear cylinder’s; insert the 4 bolts, finger tightening in a figure 8. Front Cylinder TOP. This will act as a pivot point, then swing the manifold down into position, then insert the   Rear Cylinder TOP, Front Cylinder BOTTOM, Rear Cylinder BOTTOM, holding the manifold as still as possible! This will give you a good sense for the final install with silicone. There will be enough room for the silicone, we call this the squish zone, this space is needed for final installation, which the silicone will take up, and when cured, will seal perfectly.

D:      By now, you have mastered this technical part, and are ready to apply silicone. After cleaning the cylinder heads, apply an amount of silicone on the gasket, only on the circle part, and stick it to the head, pad it down, and the excess can be wiped out and applied to the face, this will help when installing the manifold to bond with each other

Apply silicone to the manifold, Again only in a circle about 3/16 of an inch wide, and 1/16 Th of an inch high, not to wiggle it, and install with the bolts & washers supplied. Remember. It, s going to ooze out a little when bolted up, so you’ll have to determine what’s fair

E:     Well, everything looks good. Use the four new bolts with the 4 washers provided; to help spread the torque pattern. You should have silicone on the gasket face, to match the manifold you put the silicone on. From the right side of the bike, tilt the manifold out at the rear without letting the silicone coming in contact with the gaskets, and insert one bolt in the Front Cylinder TOP. This will act as a pivot point, then swing the manifold down into position, then insert the   Rear Cylinder TOP, Front Cylinder BOTTOM, Rear Cylinder BOTTOM, holding the manifold as still as possible! Otherwise, you’ll smear the silicone, and you’ll have to start all over again.

Finger tight in a figure 8 pattern as many times as necessary starting with the REAR bottom, while positioning the manifold, feeling the seating motion – You’ll feel it match up as you wiggle the manifold from the front and a up and down motion. This manifold is like nothing else’s and has 3 compound angles, so feeling the motion is part of the installation. These bolts are tiny, so don’t go crazy. You’re only going to use 75 % of the specified torque. That’s barely finger tight, once this is done, let cure for a couple of hours, (Patience is important) and then do the other 25% let cure there for up to 24 hr.s then check it again and do the final torque. The torque is ((1.8 ft lbs)), or ((23 INCH lbs.)) or gently the tip of your baby finger on the end of a 10mm box end wrench. Remember that this isn’t a head bolt on a Chevy. After warm up, and cool down, check them again for the last time. They should be about up to half of a turn loose if installed correctly. Note!!! Let the silicone do its job, never over tighten, that would be installation abuse!!!!!  Now the manifold installation is all done. SEE trouble shooting for seal check

F:    There is now a video of just the manifold installation on the web page for downloading just so you get the idea and these paper instructions are true.

CARB INSTALLATION

A:     The new rubber intake boot is pre installed for you.

B:      Now the carb is ready to install:  insert carb into the rubber intake boot (use oil to promote) rotate to feel it seal and clamp it up easy. There is a vacuum port rubber plug on the side of the carb if needed. Again on the carb there are 2 slide body vent hose’s, never block them, and one float bowl over flow hose, the 3 can be placed along the back side of oil lines facing towards the rear of the engine and then the heat from the engine will make them conform to shape of the engine galley towards the left rear side of the bike in case they ever have to over flow away from the exhaust. Again, make sure there not obstructed or blocked off, DO NOT use twist tie’s they squish the lines? this will cause the carb not to function, every thing as been pre adjusted, and ready to go, again, important check for vacuum leak on the manifold, DON’T even try to adjust the carb, re install the manifold. It can be removed by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear, side to side?

C:    Throttle for the single cable, there is an adapter on the carb, simply slip the cable through, and adjust accordingly, with help from the upper adjustment, on the twist grip and oil and grease.

Dual throttle cable’s, using your stock factory cables, position them were marked on the shipped carb and the adjusting coupler on the twist grip to get the desired push /pull tension and be sure all the cables and handle bar twist grip is greased and oiled for smooth operation

D:  Depending on what bars your using the throttle cable may have to be re-routed to give enough slack, so when turning the handlebars, it won’t pull the gas on by mistake, and rev up the engine. The choke cable can be eliminated all together, since there is a manual button/or cable for cold start up’s only

E:    On all 81, 82 83, models, 700/750/920’s the reed valve beside the left coil is not needed, simply throw it away, it doesn’t do any thing for the single carb system and was intended to help with the dual carb‘s follies, such as backfiring.

On models 1984 and newer, 1000/1100’s (on top of the coil pack) there is a pressure sensor switch with two wire’s, connect the rubber vacuum hose no bigger than 3/16 , rubber windshield washer hose is best,, not clear plastic, it will collaps  from it to the vacuum port on the side of the carb, this tells the ignition box to advance the engines timing. HINT, the hose of the pressure sensor is molded, and crimps easily, so run the hose on the outside so it’s visible along the front of the tank and up underneath, then you’ll know there’s no failure there?

(AIS) With the dual system you have front & rear ½ inch chrome tubes from the exhaust pipes can now be removed and   plugged, (a 10MM fine thread will tap itself nicely) or just simply cut them back one inch a squish then in a vise and re install. This is the (AIS) air induction system and is no longer needed and can be eliminated.  This will make a difference in performance and also will clean up the engines appearance’s dramatically

F:  Replace all FUEL lines (there likely rotten inside and the bit’s can jam the needle & seat) 5/16 fuel hose to fit the carb. On 1000/1100 use ¼ inch from the pump directly with 10 inch hose to the carb it’s self and stretch onto the 5/16 carb fitting with needle nose pliers. Now that everything is hooked up, you must prime the float bowl. Electric fuel pump models turn the ignition on and off a few times until you do not hear any more click, click, click (the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing the system). On 700/750/920’s, use only wire screen type filters on gravity system’s, not paper or brass, turn the fuel tap to the gravity feed position to prime, and connect the smaller hose from the pet cock to the vacuum port on the carb, so it will open the fuel pet cock diaphragm when in the on running position, gently tap on the float bowl, so the needle and seat doesn’t stick while filling up

G:   SPARK PLUGS: gap at .038 (new). This system was designed to use NGK. BPR 5ES        NGK Stock # (7734)     YES 5’s NOT 7 s!

H:  Your engine has a crank case breathing system, Ether on the front or rear cylinder head cam shaft cover some models have it built into the frame which is good and others need to attach a ½ inch hose, and direct it upwards, under the tank is good, and attach a small breather filter, there are many kinds, the simpler, the better

 

START UP TIPS

A:    When engine is cold, turn the idle screw up 2 ½ turns from the last time the engine was hot, and has you push the star button, pull choke button at the same time out just as the engine turns over, then release the choke as soon as possible within 5 to 20 seconds not to fowl the plugs & let the idle and warm it up, then re adjust the idle back down when hot.

B:    This new system is more mechanical than automatic; attention to warm up is important. When starting the bike for the first time, DO NOT REV IT UP, let it idle for 20 minutes, the engine heat will help cure the silicone, and check for leaks before riding, see troubleshooting

C:     Vacuum leaks are 99% of the cause of most problems; check the seal with Ether (quick start). It comes in a spray can, ETHER, no other product will do, with engine running, at no more than 1100 RPM spray it liberally 2 inch’s all around the manifold sealing points, top and bottom, so it run’s down the cylinder, it will evaporate within 2 seconds when the engine is hot If there is a leak through the silicone, the engine will change pitch, will probably smother the engine.  Do take care in this operation. This is one way to tell if it’s not sealing. You’ll notice the difference right away! If you experience a leak, you will need to reinstall the manifold: Do not polish the inside of the manifold; it’s balanced just the way it is!

D:     The brass airscrew (PMS) is the only adjustment and only functions for the first parts of the carb system.  PMS airscrew is pre set and marked on the carb body and can never go past 3 turns out. It is marked were it has been pre set by me  If this section is rich, then turn the airscrew  in 1/4-turn increments to find the sweet spot.  Again, if you have a vacuum leak, this action will be futile!

NOTE:  When cleaning the plugs, never use a brass brush; it will coat the plugs with brass, always use steel wire brush or sand blast. REMEMBER, if a plug is badly fouled up inside, the carbon deposits, will make the plug run erratically, and will miss led you, replace it with new ones!!!

F:   It should be noted that the new carb system does supply a good atomized charge, so the plugs under good condition will have a light color to them, the outside rim of the plugs will show darker, and half way up the electrode hook, or tip. This is normal. To compare: like a WW2 fighter, the cylinder heads should be 180 degrees before you go, 160 min, the manifold itself will run around 85 degrees, making the fuel charge cold & excellent for performance, it is cold blooded !

G:           This system is guaranteed to work, let the silicone do its job of sealing, over tightening the manifold’s specific torque may result in cracking the flange, this is considered installation abuse, and there is no warranty ,simply, Please use common sense, thank you.

CONCLUSION:    I know it may be hard to control your excitement with this new system, but you’ll have plenty of time to give it the works. Revving it up, will only loads the cylinders up with unburned gases, and thus you will not be able to judge the coloration of the plugs, which tell the tale. You know so-called trade secrets. It’s my firm belief, you will be a carb expert, and should be proud of your accomplishment and enjoy the new throttle response & outstanding performance that this system delivers. Relearning to shift and throttle twisting will be a whole new experience. Some say that they don’t look for a 6 Th gear any more. Please visit the trouble shooting and tips for further good info

Yours Truly. Ken

Trouble Shotting

Revised June; 2015    Trouble Shooting & Good Tips

If you choose not to read this, you most likely will not have success???? KNOW YOUR BIKE!!!

We at KJS really do care that you enjoy all the performance that you paid for, simply said, besides the instruction sheet you received, Your more than welcome to contact me by email or phone with any problems you are having and to analyze your specific issues, I will ask if you have done these tips I will provide in this letter. Always include your name, & purchase date, and model and engine size. I’m not a mind reader. Help me to help you.

It’s a fact that some folks by this system because they just want raw performance, and others as an alternative to the older crappy duals and there folly’s, which ever, there are some things you should know, there simple facts and to get to know your Yamaha better.

1.Vacumm leaks: It is mentioned in the instructions about manifold vacuum leaks, this is so important, specially on the big brother, 700 through 1100’s Viragos and V  Star  manifold has 3 compound angles and is not like any other manifold, car or otherwise to fit, it can be a challenge. On the 500/535 and 650 stars, it’s to easy and no hard ship there. If the engine pop’s back through the carb.YOU HAVE AN INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAK. Do not attempt to adjust the carb that would be futile. Spray the manifold /cylinder head joints with ether only!! About 2 inches away and soak the heck out of it and the liquefied ether will evaporate quickly and let you know there’s a vac leak

2, Sticky Throttle:  Using the stock grips, or after market, they should be greased on the bars and on the plastic sleeve and oil the cable(s). There is the white knob on the carb for idle control and after a few miles and warm up (will have) to be adjusted lower to drop the RPM,s Use 3 in 1 oil on the upper carb shaft so it gets in behind the shaft spring on both side so the slide will drop all the way down. This system is more (mechanical than automatic!!!)  These carbs are built with nice tight tolerance’s and may need to break in a bit, and will last for many years with out servicing

3, FLOODING: there are 3 hose’s coming of the carb and must hang downward, not up under the tank (never twist tie them or pinch them) the top 2 are just vents for the internal operation, the bottom one on the float bowl and is there to release fuel when the needle and seat is jammed with junk, if this happens, there are a few solutions .The tank, or reserve tanks, are rusty inside and the fuel filter is jammed up, or the fuel lines are rotting inside, or when you cut them to fit you used side cutters instead of a razor and that released small chunks of rubber and jammed the needle and seat causing flooding. HOW to fix, don’t take the carb apart yet to clean, simply remove the 17 MM nut on the bottom of the carb and drain the bowl, this will let the float go to the bottom and leave enough space to let the chucks pass through, again, leaving the nut off, on a gravity feed system turn the fuel tap to the gravity feed position, and let it flow, this should wash any small partials out. On electric models, simply turn the key on and it will flush it out, once satisfied, replace the nut and pray it worked otherwise, you’ll have to remove the float assembly and clean it manually

How could this been avoided!!!!!!!! A simple glass wire screen filter for gravity feed system’s (They can be taken apart and cleaned) just before the fuel line is attached to the carb!!!!  Is a good way to see what’s up and if you see crud, then you’ll know that the tanks are screwing up with junk. So a newer model or older you’ll have to determine that part

4, Valves: again, on older abused models, dual carb’s allowing one cylinder to run richer than the other, very common, the valves and stems as well as the piston rings most likely have a build up of gummy deposits, not really on new bike model, but older Yes. If you’re absolutely sure there’s no vacuum leaks, then I would adjust the valves God knows, how many have tried to adjust them it in the past, assume nothing! That the gummy situation exist and the valve can’t seat properly and when that happens the ignition pass’s back past the valve causing it to fart back or popping.

5, Adjusting the valves, now that there is easy access to the valve covers with the duals out of the way, why not do it now, to be sure! Your service manual has all the specs and mentions how to remove the covers to see the crankshaft markings. I have found that even though the marks may be lined up, I always remove the 2 bolts for the cam shaft covers to be sure that the dot on the gear lines up with the digit on the head casting, not to the left or right but dead center. This is the lowest point of the cam and both the intake and exhaust can be adjusted at the same time remembering the 2 inside are the intakes, and the 2 outside are the exhaust, anyway it’s worth checking!!!!!

6, Winter storage, remove again the 17 MM nut, and drain it dry, leave no gas in it and replace the plug its also a fact that if you don’t ride your bike for say a month that the 10% ethanol gas starts to plug up the carb jets and in the near future there going to raise it to 20% ethanol which will really can cause problems with the jets getting clogged up with fuel injected model of bikes, this isn’t a problem but I still like carbs that I can fix if needed .

7, Electric fuel pumps & Gravity systems::Electric will always click to fill the float bowl ,But gravity when the bike sits for a while the gas will evaporate and partially drain the bowl, So if it’s hard to start, turn the fuel tap to the gravity position to fill it then return to the on position,  If your fuel pump ever fails in the middle of no where, no worry’s, simply run an extension line from the pump inlet, to the filter/carb and it will flow from the reserve tank on a virago with gravity. On V Star’s, just run the line from the fuel tap, again to the carb. But be sure to disconnect the power to the pump so it doesn’t run on and short out, even if the motor part works, it could be just the diaphragm inside that went south.

8: Manifold gaskets: If you have to reseal the manifold gasket paper is available at any good auto parts store, part # 3187 for the .060 thou rubberized paper made by Felpro.030 thou is Part # 3157 and simply trace and cut them out and also, the gaskets on the manifold you receive are marked with what size they are, record the number size for your records.

9:  If your idle is erratic, high then low, it’s most likely carbon has built up inside the cylinder and valve stems, carbon glows when it gets hot and robs the fuel charge making it temporarily lean and so the washing of the valves and piston rings to get ride of any gumming as mentioned in the instruction sheet with WD40 which is a diesel petroleum  product it’s suggested that letting the engine warm up and a short ride it will flush all the crud into the crankcase, so changing the oil & filter is a good thing within 10 miles On rare occasions some folks connect some lines incorrectly and they didn’t know that some how fuel filled the crankcase up so they had over 7 Quarts of combined oil and gas, not good, so be sure your oil level is correct and that the hose off the cam cover is not pinched or blocked off otherwise the crankcase can’t breathe. Quick mention, whatever oil brand you like, stay away from heavy weights, 10W 30/40 is good no 50 W.

10: Hard starting after a few days? Fuel evaporated from the carb! Re prime the float bowl, gravity models .Electric will self prime,

11: Electrical problems: One of the two most over looked problems is basic. All the switches have to make smooth good electrical contact and most likely over many years have never been lubricated with a good grade oil to help this problem, or gremlins ?. Your bike has many of these switch’s , such as side stand, clutch lever, brake lights frt./rear, key ignition ,even the gas cap needs oil in it as well, So, with your spray oil, not WD40, use the plastic nozzle and soak all connections, even in between the slots in your handle bar switch’s.

2nd: Spark Plug Wires?  Big problem hidden there! Again, after years of removing and tugging on the plastic spark plug caps and wires the connection between them becomes diminished.

The plug wires are a steel core not a carbon core .so with steel core they need a resistor cap to meet (electrical interference laws) Everyone should check this by simply unscrewing the cap from the plug wire and cutting it back ¾ ‘S of a inch and re screw it back in to make good contact

These 2 procedures should be done to eliminate any possibility!

700/750/920’s; The fuel pet cock/tap’s are notorious for vacuum/diaphragms leaks causing the fuel not to flow and causing a vac leak to the side port of the carb, How to fix, get a fuel tap from a 99 to late 2000 /650 v star and eliminate the vac line all together and simply turn your fuel on and off manually when for riding.

FINE  Tuning:  the PMS, pilot mixture screw, it was pre set and is marked on the carb  the brass one in the back of the float bowl is set at 3 turns from lightly seated. Never screw it in tightly’ the point on the end of it is like a needle and one does not want to damage it

WHY would I adjust the PMS? Example: free flowing exhaust with our short stroke, low compression engines like 2 ½ to 3 turns out. Pipes more like stock, or restrictive don’t need that much fuel mixture  and 2 turns can be good, so finding that sweet spot is there, but  remember, This can’t be done if you have Bad valve seating, Gummed up , or a Vacuum leak !  Conclusion DON’T TRY TO ADJUST ANY THING ELSE!     Your system from me was configured exactly for your model (CC’s) by KJS. Email me, or phone I’m here for your issues.  Don’t here from ya, your ridin,

Cheers, Ken

V-Star Instructions 1100

1100 V- STAR Installation Guide
Congratulations on your purchase of
The KJS System
Revised: June; 2015

Please read carefully before you start the installation of this new composite system. These tips’s are proven through years and hours of R&D and were designed for self-installation with minimal prior mechanical background. It is mentioned in the trouble shooting section in a separate attachment, about vacuum leaks on installing the manifold, please remember, you can’t do the final checks of the carb’s performance, if is not sealing properly, intake manifold leaks are 99% of all problems! The carb supplied for your system is a TM40-6 formally known as a HS40, here’s a link to mikuni for more details, http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf also, visit the FAQ from the web site for further explanations, on how the system works and exhaust system clarifications
NOTE: which ever air filter you choose, the one on the web site is a K&N, part # RC 1950, no brackets required, but custom filters, depending on how heavy will need brackets to the frame to support any extra weight that some air filters have. This save’s ware & tear on the rubber boot. NOTE: you also, once the system is installed will see how to adapt your factory (round face cover only) once it’s torn apart from the rest of the junk, it’s been done before. We don’t sell air filters there just too many kinds.

MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

The most important thing to remember is the old theory, practice makes perfect. Use BLACK SILICONE ADHESIVE SEALANT ULTRA BLACK RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER, this is for installing and sealing the manifold correctly & takes 24 HR.S, too cure, read there package for use

A: With the old dual carb system, it’s a fact that on older models or abused, that one cylinder may have run richer than the other. Over a period of time, this gums up the cylinders & intake/exhaust valves the valve stems and piston rings with the spark plugs & old duels removed you can spray down into the cylinder intake onto the valve stems with WD 40, turning the engine over from time to time. Do this over a period of a day or two, to loosen up all the old crap, so when you fire up the new system, it clears it out and you’ll be able to enjoy the KJS system to its fullest potential. If you choose to perform this step, be aware that you’ll see lots of really nasty smoke on your first engine start up. . If the engine pops, then the valves are carboned up and it will clear in a 100 mile. This holds true for older abused models that used duel carb’s that been bad for years

B: Note, with the composite manifold never over tighten it. There tough! So be sure you understand this, it works! Never over tighten, again, let the silicone do its job. If you have a 3rd party do the install for you, remember, most mechanics know everything, and they don’t get paid to read these instructions, so if they brake it, as they say, they have to buy you a new one. This is called installation abuse! Please just use common sense, thank you.

C: Here comes the practice part: NOTE; Record the size of gaskets being used! Place the gaskets supplied on the front & rear cylinders; insert the 4 bolts, finger tightening in a figure 8. Front Cylinder TOP. This will act as a pivot point, then swing the manifold down into position, then insert the Rear Cylinder TOP, Front Cylinder BOTTOM, Rear Cylinder BOTTOM, holding the manifold as still as possible! This will give you a good sense for the final install with silicone. There will be enough room for the silicone, we call this the squish zone, this space is needed for final installation, which the silicone will take up, and when cured, will seal perfectly

D: By now, you have mastered this technical part, and are ready to apply silicone. With the gaskets supplied, after cleaning the cylinder heads, apply silicone on the gasket, only on the circle part, and stick it to the head, pad it down, and the excess can be wiped out and applied to the face, this will help when installing the manifold to bond with each other & Apply silicone to the manifold, only again in a circle about 3/16 of an inch wide, and 1/16 th of an inch high, not to wiggle it, and install with the bolts & washers supplied. Remember. It, s going to ooze out a little when bolted up, so you’ll have to determine what’s fair

E: Well, everything looks good. Use the four new bolts with the 4 washers provided; to help spread the torque pattern. You should have silicone on the gasket face, to match the manifold you put the silicone on. From the right side of the bike, tilt the manifold out at the rear without letting the silicone coming in contact with the gaskets, and insert one bolt in the Front Cylinder TOP. This will act as a pivot point, then swing the manifold down into position, then insert the Rear Cylinder TOP, Front Cylinder BOTTOM, Rear Cylinder BOTTOM, holding the manifold as still as possible! Otherwise, you’ll smear the silicone, and you’ll have to start all over again.

Finger tight in a figure 8 pattern as many times as necessary starting with the REAR bottom, while positioning the manifold, feeling the seating motion – You’ll feel it match up as you wiggle the manifold from the front and a up and down motion. This manifold is like nothing else’s and has 3 compound angles, so feeling the motion is part of the installation. These bolts are tiny, so don’t go crazy. You’re only going to use 75 % of the specified torque. That’s barely finger tight, once this is done, let cure for a couple of hours, (Patience is important) and then do the other 25% let cure there for up to 24 hr.s then check it again and do the final torque. The torque is ((1.8 ft lbs)), or ((23 INCH lbs.)) or gently the tip of your baby finger on the end of a 10mm box end wrench. Remember that this isn’t a head bolt on a Chevy. After warm up, and cool down, check them again for the last time. They should be about up to half of a turn loose if installed correctly. Note!!! Let the silicone do its job, never over tighten, that would be installation abuse!!!!! Now the manifold installation is all done. SEE trouble shooting for seal check

F: There is now a video of just the manifold installation on the web page for downloading just so you get the idea and these paper instructions are true.

CARB INSTALLATION

A: The new rubber intake boot is pre installed for you.

(AIS) With the dual system you have front & rear ½ inch chrome tubes from the exhaust pipes can now be removed and plugged, (a 10MM fine thread will tap itself nicely) or just simply cut them back one inch a squish then in a vise and re install. This is the (AIS) air induction system and is no longer needed and can be eliminated. This will make a difference in performance and also will clean up the engines appearance’s dramatically

B: Now the carb is ready to install: insert carb into the rubber intake boot (use oil to promote) rotate to feel it seal and clamp it up easy. There is a vacuum port rubber plug on the side if needed. There are 2 slide body vent hose’s on the carb, never block them, and one float bowl over flow hose, the 3 can be placed along the back side of oil lines facing towards the rear of the engine and cut off neatly then the heat from the engine will make them conform to shape of the engine galley towards the left rear side of the bike in case they ever have to over flow away from the exhaust. Again, make sure there not obstructed or blocked off, DO NOT use twist tie’s, this will cause the carb not to function, everything has been pre adjusted, and ready to go, again, important check for vacuum leak on the manifold, DON’T even try to adjust the carb, re install the manifold. It can be removed by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear

C: Depending on what bars your using the throttle cable may have to be re-routed to give enough slack, so when turning the handlebars, it won’t pull the gas on by mistake, and rev up the engine. The choke cable can be eliminated all together, since there is a manual button/cable for cold start up’s only

D: Now that everything is hooked up, you must prime the float bowl. Turn the fuel tap to the on position to feed the fuel to the float bowl & gently tap the float bowl, so the needle and seat doesn’t stick otherwise you’ll never get it to run. Your model has an electric fuel pump, turn the ignition on and off a few times until you do not hear any more click, click, click (the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing the system).

E: SPARK PLUGS: gap at .038 (new). This system was designed to use NGK. BPR 5ES NGK Stock # (7734) YES 5’s NOT 7s

F: The engine has a crank case breathing system, on the front cylinder head cam shaft cover, attach a ½ inch heater hose, and direct it upwards, under the tank is good, and attach a small breather filter; there are many kinds, the simpler, and the better

V STAR
Additional installation information:

1: On the front cylinder, there is a bracket and grommet bolted to the cam chain tentioner simply with a pair of grips, bend it over 45 degrees to clear the carb when mounted. This can also be used for a support bracket for your air filter later. Do not remove it from the bike; otherwise you will have to re-set the cam chain tenstioner, real pain!
2: Throttle cables can be re routed to the right side, just above the ignition key if needed to give enough clearance when turning the handlebars, especially with custom bars
3: fuel line can be joined with a straight threw barb at the old “T” to the correct size of line 5/16 s
4: Factory choke cable can be removed completely.
5: When adapting whatever air filter you choose, either your factory one re worked, be sure it doesn’t obstruct any linkages, including the accelerator pump rod
6: Replace the 4 Allen head bolts for the manifold with the hex head bolts supplied
7: Carb heater wires are not used & can be loomed and tucked away
8: California models 04 & newer and ALL 06 & newer are equipped with fuel cut off solenoids on the float bowls and are designed for the duel carb’s on de acceleration to stop fuel from passing the main jet and are not used now, the ignition box need to think there still there, otherwise the yellow engine light will appear, in the kit is supplied a pair of 1 Watt, 10 ohm resistors, each wired to the 2 plastic plugs and soldered and both grounded to complete the circuit. This will trick the computer box to thinking there still there. Barons I believe sells a complete wire harness if you’re not good with doing it your self

The TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) tells the computer the position of the throttle shaft, in relation to the engines RPM range.
In the factory configuration there are 3 wires, blue, and 5 volts. Black, ground, and the yellow, which is the reference point.

With the new location for this conversion, it now rotates in the opposite direction from the factory, by simply reversing the Blue and the black wires in the plastic housing, it will function properly. There is no need to move or modify the yellow wire.

Note: Never cut and splice these 2 wires, they come out of the plastic holder

Please refer to the photo: with a small pin, or jeweler’s screwdriver, you want to release the plastic tab that retains the actual wire pin itself. The tab is part of the housing itself; it’s not on the metal pin.

Place it against the wire pin, and bend the tab away, this will release it so it can easily slide out. You’re just exchanging the Blue and the Black wires only.

Specifications for when you’re ready to do the final carb assembly; Use a DIGATAL OHM meter set at 20K scale. Place the red led on the blue pin, black led on the yellow pin, be sure the throttle is in the closed position. Set the TPS so it reads between 0.56 – 0.86K Ohms. Turn the throttle full open, it should read between 3.01-4.51K Ohms.

V Star: Some models have on the float bowls, Fuel cut off solenoids. You’ll have to hard wire in a pair of resistors, 10 ohms 1 watt resistors one to each pair of wire’s and ground the other side, try and make your wire harness, so it tucks up under the gas tank and away from weather’ What this does is tricks the ignition box, to thinking the float bowls are full, of course, the needle and seat, will do the rest
TPS Installation:

When removing the TPS from the dual carbs, they have two tamper proof screw’s, they can be taken out with small grips, or a TX20, driver bit, and discard them. Also leave the brass colored plate attached to the old carbs; you don’t need it when lining up the TPS.
You’ll have to turn the inside of it to line up with the pivot shaft, and match up the 3 way groves, then using the two nuts, and bolts supplied, use the washers and nut on the inside only, install finger tight, you want to be able to open and close the throttle, watching the north, south, east and west motion, so nothing binds. At the same time have the ohm meter readings within spec’s, take your time, the TPS is made of plastic, and you don’t want to split it, when satisfied, tighten easy.
START UP TIPS

A: When engine is cold, turn the idle screw up 2 ½ turns, and has you push the star button, pull choke button at the same time out just as the engine turns over, then release it within 5 to 20 seconds or as soon as possible, not to fowl the plugs let the idle warm it up, then re adjust the idle when hot
.
B: This new system is more mechanical than automatic; attention to warm up is important. When starting the bike for the first time, DO NOT REV IT UP, let it idle for 20 minutes, the engine heat will help cure the silicone, and check for leaks before riding, see troubleshooting

C: Vacuum leaks are 99% of the cause of most problems; check the seal with Ether (quick start). It comes in a spray can, ETHER, no other product will do, with engine running, at no more than 1100 RPM spray it liberally 2 inch’s all around the manifold sealing points, top and bottom, so it run’s down the cylinder, it will evaporate within 2 seconds when the engine is hot If there is a leak through the silicone, the engine will change pitch, will probably smother the engine. Do take care in this operation. This is one way to tell if it’s not sealing. You’ll notice the difference right away! If you experience a leak, you will need to reinstall the manifold: Do not polish the inside of the manifold; it’s balanced just the way it is!
D; The brass airscrew (PMS) is the only adjustment and only functions for the first parts of the carb system. PMS airscrew is pre set and marked on the carb body and can never go past 3 turns out. It is marked were it has been pre set by me If this section is rich, then turn the airscrew in 1/4-turn increments to find the sweet spot. Again, if you have a vacuum leak, this action will be futile

NOTE: When cleaning the plugs, never use a brass brush; it will coat the plugs with brass, always use steel wire brush or sand blast. REMEMBER, if a plug is badly fouled up inside, the carbon deposits, will make the plug run erratically, and will miss led you, replace it with new ones!!!

F: It should be noted that the new carb system does supply a good atomized charge, so the plugs under good condition will have a light color to them, the outside rim of the plugs will show darker, and half way up the electrode hook, or tip. This is normal. To compare: like a WW2 fighter, the cylinder heads should be 180 degrees before you go, 160 min, the manifold itself will run around 85 degrees, making the fuel charge cold & excellent for performance, it is cold blooded !

G: This system is guaranteed to work, let the silicone do its job of sealing, over tightening the manifold’s specific torque may result in cracking the flange, this is considered installation abuse, and there is no warranty. Again, please use common sense.
CONCLUSION: I know it may be hard to control your excitement with this new system, but you’ll have plenty of time to give it the works. Revving it up, will only loads the cylinders up with unburned gases, and thus you will not be able to judge the coloration of the plugs, which tell the tale. You know so-called trade secrets. It’s my firm belief, you will be a carb expert, and should be proud of your accomplishment and enjoy the new throttle response & outstanding performance that this system delivers. Relearning to shift and throttle twisting will be a whole new experience. Some say that they don’t look for a 6 th gear any more. Yours truly; Ken

650 V-Star Instructions

650 V-Star Installation Guide

Congratulations on your purchase of
The KJS System

Revised: June; 2015

Please read carefully before you start the installation of this new composite system. These tip’s are proven through years and hours of R&D and were designed for self-installation with no prior mechanical background knowledge. It is mentioned in the trouble shooting section, about vacuum leaks on installing the manifold, please remember, you can’t do the final checks of the carb’s performance, if is not sealing properly,
The carb supplied for your system is a TM40-6 formally known as a HS40, and comes all set up for your application so don’t mess with it. Here is a link to mikuni for more details on its functions. http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf Note: Please visit the FAQ from the web site for how the system works and exhaust system clarifications. The installation of the manifold video on the web site is not for this system, since this one mounts to easy like a Chevy center head, it just plop’s on facing the right side.
NOTE: whichever air filter you choose, the one on the web site is a K&N, part # RC 1950, dementions are posted on the K&N web site, if needed., no brackets required, but custom filters, depending on how heavy they are like those hyper things may need brackets to the frame to support any Extra weight and that some other air filters may require. This save’s ware & tear on the rubber boot NOTE: you also can, once the system is installed can adapt your factory (round outer chrome cover only) once it’s torn apart from the rest of the junk, we don’t sell air filters there just too many kinds!

MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

A: The most important thing to remember is the old theory, practice make’s perfect. Use BLACK SILICONE ADHESIVE SEALANT ULTRA BLACK RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER, this is for installing and sealing the manifold correctly & takes 24 HR.S, too cure, read package for use

B: NOTE… The installation of the manifold video on the web site is not for this system, since this one mounts to easy like a Chevy center head, it just plop’s on facing the right side like a Harley
: Note, with the composite manifold never over tighten it, There tough! So be sure you understand this, it works! Never over tighten, again, let the silicone do its job. If you have a 3rd party do the install for you, remember, most mechanics know everything, and they don’t get paid to read these instructions, so if they brake it, as they say, they have to buy you a new one. This is called installation abuse! Please use common sense, thank you.

C: With the old dual carb system, it’s a fact that on older models or abused ones, that one cylinder may have run richer than the other. Over a period of time, this gums up the cylinders & intake/exhaust valves the valve stems and piston rings with the spark plugs & old duels removed you can spray down into the cylinders & the valve stems with WD 40, turning the engine over from time to time. Do this over a period of a day or two, to loosen up all the old crap, so when you fire up the new system, it clears it out and you’ll be able to enjoy the KJS system to it’s fullest potential. If you choose to perform this step, be aware that you’ll see lots of really nasty smoke on your first engine start up. . If the engine pops, then the valves are carboned up and it will clear in a 100 mile. This holds true for older abused models that used duel carb’s that been bad for years

D: Old dual carb removal: A Yamaha service manual is a valuable guide if you’re not sure.
NOTE: There is a lower factory air filter bracket with 2 bolts attached to the rear of the front cylinder and is removed permanently now and no longer required

E: With the gaskets supplied, after cleaning the cylinder heads, apply a amount of silicone on the gasket, only on the circle part, and stick it to the head, pad it down, and the excess can be wiped out and applied to the face, this will help when installing the manifold to bond with each other

F: Apply silicone to the manifold, only again in a circle about 3/16 of an inch wide, and 1/16 Th of an inch high, not to wiggle it, and install with the bolts & washers supplied. Remember. It, s going to ooze out a little when bolted up, so you’ll have to determine what’s fair

G: Finger tighten only in a figure 8 pattern, while positioning the manifold, feeling the seating motion – You’ll feel it match up. These bolts are tiny, so don’t go crazy you’re only going to use 75 % of the specified torque. That’s barely finger tight, once this is done, let cure for a couple of hours, (Patience is important) and then do the other 25% let cure there for up to 24 hr.s then check it again and do the final torque. The torque is ((1.8 ft lbs)), or ((23 INCH lbs.)) Or gently the tip of your baby finger on the end of a 10mm box end wrench. Remember that this isn’t a head bolt on a Chevy. After warm up, and cool down, check them again for the last time. They should be about up to half of a turn loose if installed correctly. Note!!! Let the silicone do its job, never over tighten, that would be installation abuse!!!!! Now the manifold installation is all done. SEE trouble shooting for seal check

TPS REMOVAL & NEW INSTALLATION

The TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) tells the computer the position of the throttle shaft, in relation to the engines RPM range. This is to tell the ignition to advance the engine timing in degrees. From the factory there are 3 wires. Blue is 5 volts. Black is ground and the yellow is the reference point.

For this conversion the 3 wires going to the TPS have to be extended 18 inches long with wire supplied with the kit, to reach its new location on the carb so instead of removing the wire and plug from the TPS itself, simply peel back the wire harness insulating tape 4 inches back up under the gas tank at the main harness and cut the 3 wires separately in the middle leaving enough room to soldier and shrink wrap the new 18 inch extension of wire and when complete wrap it up with a good brand electrical tape for neatness.

When removing the TPS from the dual carbs, they have two tamper proof screws’ that can be taken out with small vise grips and all you’ll need is just the TPS switch alone. There are new nut and bolts supplied on the bracket, which has been pre installed to the carb and ready to except your TPS to it.

The TPS is internally spring loaded so by placing it on the pivot shaft at say around 3 to 4 o’clock swing it back down to the 6 o’clock position and line it up with the two holes in the bracket with the wire plug end facing down insert the bolts with the nuts to the inside and tighten easy until final settings are done and also checking for the north, east, west & south rotation so it doesn’t bind

Specifications: Use a DIGATAL OHM meter only! Set at 20 K scale from the meter use the red led on the blue TPS wire. And black led from ohmmeter to the yellow TPS wire, in the closed throttle position. Set the TPS so it reads between 0.65 – 0.75 K Ohms. Turn the throttle full open, it should read between 3.01- 4.15 K Ohms. Check for binding and tighten it up. NOTE: this operation has to be done while unplugged from the TPS or before you wire the extension wire of course, knowing which color wire is which.

California models 04 & newer and ALL 06 & newer are equipped with fuel cut off solenoids on the float bowls and are designed for the duel carb’s on de acceleration to stop fuel from passing the main jet and are not used now, the ignition box needs to think there still there, otherwise the yellow engine light will appear, so with a pair of 1 Watt, 10 ohm resistors supplied with the kit, each wired to the 2 plastic plugs and soldered and both grounded to complete the circuit. This will trick the computer box to thinking there still there. Barons I believe sells a complete wire harness if you’re not good with doing it your self

CARB INSTALLATION

A: The new rubber intake adapter is pre installed for you, done!

B: Now the carb is ready to install: insert carb into the rubber intake boot (use oil to promote) rotate to feel it seal and clamp it up easy. There is a vacuum port rubber plug on the side if needed. There are 2 slide body vent hose’s, never block them, and one float bowl over flow hose the 3 can be placed in between the cylinders facing towards the rear of the engine and cut off neatly then the heat from the engine will make them conform to shape of the engine galley towards the left rear side of the bike in case they ever have to over flow away from the exhaust. Again, make sure there not obstructed or blocked off, don’t use twist tie’s, they may squish the hose’s and cause the carb not to function, everything has been pre adjusted, and ready to go, again, important check for vacuum leak on the manifold, DON’T even try to adjust the carb, re install the manifold. It can be removed by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear
.
C: Dual throttle cables: Depending on what bars your using the throttle cable will have to be re-routed to give enough slack, so when turning the handlebars, it won’t pull the gas on by mistake, and rev up the engine & reroute them on the outside of the forks and triple trees so the hang free and slip them through the right side plastic tank extension just above the ignition key.
The pull cable the one with the adjusting coupler on the twist grip spin back the big nut up the metal shaft and place it in the cable holder on the bottom hole of the carb and spin the retaining nut on and place the ball of the cable in the 3rd hole will be marked as such and adjust to get the desired pull tension and slack. Then place the return cable in the top carb holder and place the ball in the 4th hole also make sure the cable and handle bar twist grip is greased and oiled for smooth operation.

D: (AIS) With the dual system you have front & rear ½ inch chrome tubes from the exhaust pipes can now be removed and plugged, (a 10MM fine thread will tap itself nicely) or just simply cut them back one inch a squish then in a vise and re install. This is the (AIS) air induction system and is no longer needed and can be eliminated. This will make a difference in performance and also will clean up the engines appearance’s dramatically

E: You will need a new fuel line 24 inches long by 5/16 hose and two small hose clamps to fit the carb and the fuel pump outlet and route the line through the frame. With the fuel tap turned on the
Electric fuel pump has to be primed turn the ignition on and off a few times until you do not hear any more click, click, click (the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing the system). There is a built in filter just off the fuel petcock line going to the pump from the factory

F: SPARK PLUGS: gap at .038 (new). This system was designed to use NGK. DPR5EA-9
NGK stock # (2887) Yes 5’s NOT 7s!!!!!

G: Your engine has a crank case breathing system, on the rear cylinder head cam shaft cover and did hook up into the old air filter box which as now been removed permanatly. You will need to attach a ½ inch joiner and direct it upwards and attach a small breather filter and clamp them. There are many kinds, the simpler, and the better. Also your bike came equipped with carb heaters and are no longer required & when removing the old carb simply UN plug the wire harness

START UP TIPS

A: When cold, turn the idle screw up 2 ½ Turns, pull choke button if needed for cold starts, out just as the engine turns over, then release it as soon as possible within 5 to 20 seconds, not to fowl the plugs let the idle warm it up, then re adjust the idle when hot after a few miles at a stop light
.
B: This new system is more mechanical than automatic; attention to warm up is important. When starting the bike for the first time, DO NOT REV IT UP, let it idle for 20 minutes, the engine heat will help cure the silicone, and check for Vacuum leaks if necessary before riding. See troubleshooting attachment

C: Vacuum leaks are the cause of most problems; check the seal with Ether (quick start). It comes in a spray can, ETHER, no other product will do, with engine running, at no more than 1100 RPM spray it liberally 2 inch’s all around the manifold sealing points, top and bottom, so it run’s down the cylinder, it will evaporate within 2 seconds when the engine is hot If there is a leak through the silicone, the engine will change pitch, will probably smother the engine. Do take care in this operation. This is one way to tell if it’s not sealing. You’ll notice the difference right away! If you experience a leak, you will need to reinstall the manifold: It can be removed again by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear Do not polish the inside of the manifold; it’s balanced just the way it is!

D: KJS customers have mentioned that this system performs better after a few miles. This makes sense, considering that the dual carbs have in most cases on older models have gummed up the rings and valves. Now that your bike as a new heart, it has to clear out all the old crud

E: The brass airscrew (PMS) is the only adjustment and only functions for the first parts of the carb system. PMS airscrew is pre set and marked on the carb body and can never go past 3 turns out. It is marked were it has been pre set by me If this section is rich, then turn the airscrew in 1/4-turn increments to find the sweet spot. Again, if you have a vacuum leak, this action will be futile!

F: NOTE: When cleaning the plugs, never use a brass brush, it will coat the plugs with brass and make the spark erratic, always use steel wire brush or sand blast. REMEMBER, if a plug is badly fouled up inside, the carbon deposits, will make the plug run erratically, and will miss led you, replace them with new ones!!!!

G: It should be noted that the new carb system does supply a good atomized charge, so the plugs under good condition will have a light color to them, the outside rim of the plugs will show darker, and half way up the electrode hook, or tip. This is normal. To compare: like a WW2 fighter, the cylinder heads should be 180 degrees before you go, 160 min, the manifold itself will run around 85 degrees, making the fuel charge cold & excellent for performance, it is cold blooded !

H: This system is guaranteed to work, let the silicone do its job of sealing, over tightening the manifold’s specific tourge may result in Failure this is considered installation abuse, and there is no warranty. Please use common sense, thank you

CONCLUSION: I know it may be hard to control your excitement with this new system, but you’ll have plenty of time to give it the works. Revving it up, will only loads the cylinders up with unburned gases, and thus you will not be able to judge the coloration of the plugs, which tell the tale. You know so-called trade secrets. It’s my firm belief, you will be a carb expert, and should be proud of your accomplishment and enjoy the new throttle response & outstanding performance that this system delivers. Relearning to shift and throttle twisting will be a whole new experience. Some say they stopped looking for a 6 Th gear?

Yours truly. Ken

400/500/535 Virago Installation Guide

400/500/535 Virago Instructions

Congratulations on your purchase of
The KJS System
Revised; June 2015

Please read carefully before you start the installation of this new composite system. These tips’s are proven through years and hours of R&D and were designed for self-installation with no prior mechanical background knowledge. It is mentioned in the trouble shooting section, about vacuum leaks on installing the manifold, please remember, you can’t do the final checks of the carb’s performance, if is not sealing properly,
The carb supplied for your system is a TM40-6 formally known as a HS40, and comes all set up for your application so don’t mess with it. Here is a link to mikuni for more details on its functions. http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf Also, visit the FAQ from the web site for further explanations, on how the system works and exhaust system clarifications
NOTE: whichever air filter you choose!! The one on the web site is a K&N, part # RC 1950 No brackets required, but custom filters, depending on how heavy they are, may need brackets to the frame to support any extra weight that some air filters may require. This save’s ware & tear on the rubber boot .we don’t sell air filters there is to many kinds!

MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

A: The most important thing to remember is the old theory, practice make’s perfect. Use BLACK SILICONE ADHESIVE SEALANT ULTRA BLACK RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER, this is for installing and sealing the manifold correctly & can take up to 24 HR.S, too cure, read package for use

B: NOTE… The installation of the manifold video on the web site is not for this system, since this one mounts to easy like a Chevy center head, it just plop’s on facing the right side like a Harley
: Note, with the composite manifold never over tighten. There tough! So be sure you understand this, it works! Never over tighten, again, let the silicone do its job. If you have a 3rd party do the install for you, remember, most mechanics know everything, and they don’t get paid to read these instructions, so if they brake it, as they say, they have to buy you a new one. This is called installation abuse! Please use common sense, thank you

C: With the old dual carb system, it’s a fact that on older models, that one cylinder may have run richer than the other. Over a period of time, this gums up the intake valves and piston rings. With the spark plugs removed and the duel carbs you can spray down into the cylinders & intake/exhaust valves the valve stems with WD 40, turning the engine over from time to time. Do this over a period of a day or two, to loosen up all the old crap, so when you fire up the new system, it clears it out and you’ll be able to enjoy the KJS system to it’s fullest potential. If you choose to perform this step, be aware that you’ll see lots of really nasty smoke on your first engine start up. . If the engine pops, then the valves are carboned up and it will clear in a 100 mile. This holds true for older abused models that used duel carb’s that been bad for years

D: Old dual carb removal: A Yamaha service manual is a valuable guide if you’re not sure.
With models with the upper real tank, simply remove the hold down bolts, and suspend it on a 45 degree angle, with a bungee cord from the bars, so you don’t have to remove the fuel lines, and this will give you access to the air filter box and final removal of the old carbs on 500 models with fuel pet cocks, simply remove, Models with a false tank, again, remove for air filter access

E: With the gaskets supplied, after cleaning the cylinder heads, apply a amount of silicone on the gasket, only on the circle part, and stick it to the head, pad it down, and the excess can be wiped out and applied to the face, this will help when installing the manifold to bond with each other

F: Apply silicone to the manifold, only again in a circle about 5/16 of an inch wide, and 1/16 th of an inch high, not to wiggle it, and install with the bolts & washers supplied. Remember.it, s going to ooze out a little when bolted up, so you’ll have to determine whats fair

G: Finger tighten only in a figure 8 pattern, while positioning the manifold, feeling the seating motion – You’ll feel it match up. These bolts are tiny, so don’t go crazy. You’re only going to use 75 % of the specified torque. That’s barely finger tight, once this is done, let cure for a couple of hours, (Patience is important) and then do the other 25% let cure there for up to 24 hr.s then check it again and do the final torque. The torque is ((1.8 ft lbs)), or ((23 INCH lbs.)) or gently the tip of your baby finger on the end of a 10mm box end wrench. Remember that this isn’t a head bolt on a Chevy. After warm up, and cool down, check them again for the last time. They should be about up to half of a turn loose if installed correctly. Note!!! Let the silicone do its job, never over tighten, that would be installation abuse!!!!! Now the manifold installation is all done. SEE trouble shooting for seal check: everything has been pre adjusted, and ready to go, again, important check for vacuum leak on the manifold, DON’T even try to adjust the carb, re install the manifold. It can be removed by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear

Note, with the composite manifold never over tighten. There tough! So be sure you understand this, it works! Never over tighten, again, let the silicone do its job. If you have a 3rd party do the install for you, remember, most mechanics know everything, and they don’t get paid to read these instructions, so if they brake it, as they say, they have to buy you a new one. This is called installation abuse! Please use common sense, thank you

CARB INSTALLATION

A: The new rubber intake adapter has been pre installed done!

B: Now the carb is ready to install: insert carb into the rubber intake boot (use oil to promote) rotate to feel it seal and clamp it up easy. There is a vacuum port rubber plug on the side of the carb if needed. There are 2 slide body vent hose’s, never block them, and one float bowl over flow hose, the 3 can be placed in between the cylinders facing towards the rear of the engine and cut off neatly then the heat from the engine will make them conform to shape of the engine galley towards the left rear side of the bike in case they ever have to over flow away from the exhaust. Again, make sure there not obstructed or blocked off, don’t use twist tie’s, they may squish the hose’s and cause the carb not to function, every thing as been pre adjusted, and ready to go, again, important check for vacuum leak on the manifold, DON’T even try to adjust the carb, re install the manifold

C: Throttle for the single cable (400/500/535’s) there is a cable adapter on the carb bracket, simply slip the cable through, and adjust accordingly, with help from the upper adjustment, on the twist grip and place the ball in the 3 rd hole on the throttle plate it will be marked as such, and oil and grease the cable, and twist grip and inside the handle bar slide.
Some later model (535’s) may have the factory pull cable the one with the adjusting coupler on the twist grip and place the ball in the 3 rd hole will be marked as such and adjust to get the desired pull tension and slack and place the return cable in the 4th hole as marked with the slotted nut provided and also be sure the cable and handle bar twist grip is greased and oiled for smooth operation.

D: Depending on what bars your using the throttle cable should be re-routed on the outside of the forks and triple trees to give enough slack, so when turning the handlebars, it won’t pull the gas on by mistake, and rev up the engine. The choke cable is not used any more and eliminated all together, since there is a manual choke cable/ button for cold start up’s only

E: Early 400/500’s have a reed valve under the left side pod it now can be removed completely for the single system some 535 models’ have chrome tubes from the exhaust pipes (and can be plugged with a 10MM fine thread bolt or simply cut then back one inch and squish them in a vice and re install. (AIS) air induction system under the left side pod and is no longer needed and can be eliminated. Under the right side chrome cover, (535) is all the ignition stuff, you can relocate it through the frame, where the air filters was, to get rid of it, cleans up the bikes appearances

F: Replace all FUEL lines (they are most likely rotten inside and the bit’s can jam the needle & seat) 5/16 fuel hose to fit the carb, on 500 model bikes use only wire screen type filters for gravity feed system’s, not paper or brass and turn the pet cock to prime the float bowl and connect the smaller hose from the pet cock to the vacuum port on the carb, so it will open the fuel pet cock diaphragm when in the on running position, gently tap on the float bowl, so the needle and seat doesn’t stick while filling up
On 535 model’s Electric fuel pump also has to be primed with the fuel tap on turn the ignition on and off a few times until you do not hear any more click, click, click (the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing the system). There should be a built in filter down below of the main tank from the factory

G SPARK PLUGS: gap at .038 (new). This system was designed to use NGK. BP(R) 5ES
YES 5’s!!!!!!!!

H: Your engine has a crank case breathing system, Ether on the front cylinder head cam shaft cover and go’s into the frame where the air filters use to be which is good so just leave it alone, it’s fine there and others need to attach a ½ inch hose, and direct it upwards, under the tank is good, and attach a small breather filter, there are many kinds, the simpler, the better again, if needed.

START UP TIPS

A: When engine is cold, turn the idle screw up 2 ½ turns from the last time the engine was hot, and has you push the star button, pull choke button at the same time out just as the engine turns over, then release the choke as soon as possible within 5 to 20 seconds not to fowl the plugs & let the idle and warm it up, then re adjust the idle back down when hot.

B: This new system is more mechanical than automatic; attention to warm up is important. When starting the bike for the first time, DO NOT REV IT UP, let it idle for 20 minutes, the engine heat will help cure the silicone, and check for leaks before riding, NOTE: see trouble shooting or you just may fail?

C: If your bike runs like crap after any miles, you may have this problem? Vacuum leaks are 99% of the cause of most problems; check the seal with Ether (quick start). It comes in a spray can, ETHER, no other product will do!! ! with engine running, at no more than 1100 RPM spray it liberally 2 inch’s all around the manifold sealing points, top and bottom, so it run’s down the cylinder, it will evaporate within 2 seconds when the engine is hot If there is a leak through the silicone, the engine will change pitch, will probably smother the engine. Do take care in this operation. This is one way to tell if it’s not sealing. You’ll notice the difference right away! If you experience a leak, you will need to reinstall the manifold: It can be removed by using a 1 inch putty knife shaved to an edge, and gently tapped with a 6 oz hammer going from front to rear Do not polish the inside of the manifold; it’s balanced just the way it is!

D: KJS customers have mentioned that this system performs better after a few miles. This makes sense, considering that the dual carbs have in most cases on older models have gummed up the rings and valves. Now that your bike as a new heart, it has to clear out all the old crud

E: The brass airscrew (PMS) is the only adjustment and only functions for the first parts of the carb system. PMS airscrew is pre set and marked on the carb body and can never go past 3 turns out. It is marked were it has been pre set by me If this section is rich, then turn the airscrew in 1/4-turn increments to find the sweet spot. Again, if you have a vacuum leak, this action will be futile!

F: NOTE: When cleaning the plugs, never use a brass brush, it will coat the plugs with brass and make the spark erratic, always use steel wire brush or sand blast. REMEMBER, if a plug is badly fouled up inside, the carbon deposits, will make the plug run erratically, and will miss led you, replace them with new ones!!!!

G: : It should be noted that the new carb system does supply a good atomized charge, so the plugs under good condition will have a light color to them, the outside rim of the plugs will show darker, and half way up the electrode hook, or tip. This is normal. To compare: like a WW2 fighter, the cylinder heads should be 180 degrees before you go, 160 min, the manifold itself will run around 85 degrees, making the fuel charge cold & excellent for performance, it is cold blooded !

H: This system is guaranteed to work, let the silicone do its job of sealing, over tightening the manifold’s specific tourge may result in cracking the flange, this is considered installation abuse, and there is no warranty. Please use common sense, thank you

CONCLUSION: I know it may be hard to control your excitement with this new system, but you’ll have plenty of time to give it the works. Revving it up, will only loads the cylinders up with unburned gases, and thus you will not be able to judge the coloration of the plugs, which tell the tale. You know so-called trade secrets. It’s my firm belief, you will be a carb expert, and should be proud of your accomplishment and enjoy the new throttle response & outstanding performance that this system delivers. Relearning to shift and throttle twisting will be a whole new experience. Some say they don’t look for a 6 th gear anymore? Yours truly. Ken